ConnieLene – KnitDesigner

Curiously “Peplum” has two distinct and almost separate definitions. Its early origins are Greek, and peplum was simply the word for tunic. The peplum, a term dating back to the 19th century, is also a short overskirt that is usually attached to a fitted jacket. My jacket is certainly a fitted jacket with a short skirt.

Is this the jacket you would like the pattern for? It has pointed sections over the hand and at the back of the peplum skirt. There is no collar and is very fitting in 12ply mohair. The mohair was black with sections of rich blues and is no longer available.

Jacket Pattern Brewing for rather a long time.

or one of these designs below?

Sleeveless with 2 button fastening and lapel collar, the peplum does not have a pointed section at the back.

Sleeveless again with pin fastening, no collar, but includes lapel flap. (not sure if that describes it or not – the lapel does not continue around the back of the neck). The skirt or peplum is much fuller and longer and without the pointed section.

I was so lucky yesterday to find Touch Yarns at Fieldays at the Mystery Creek Events Centre.

What will I create with the yarns I purchased yesterday? Who knows.

If I am creating for a specific pattern, or exhibition or competition which does tend to focus one somewhat then I would know which yarns or colours etc. But if I am wanting to create something outside of such parameters then I do let the yarn tell me what I should create. I have used Touch Yarns many times since I discovered them whilst in Dunedin to run Library training at one of our Dynix libraries quite a few years ago now. It may have have Dunedin Public, Otago University or the Teachers Training College. That detail has long gone, but the wool shop and Touch Yarns were a wonderful discovery.

These are some of the garments I have created which included Touch yarns.

Dear dear Meredith, you did spark an old memory, one nearly lost in the mists of time when you sent the modern intarsia crochet photo to me on facebook.

And what did it remind me of? Well my very simple freeform intarsia waistcoats that were created in the very late 60′s and early 70′s. I also crocheted a freeform full length dressing gown for my wee boy. The dressing gown was so big I had to fold up about 4 inches as a hem and let it down as he grew as well as extending the arms. If I find a photo I shall post it here.

The waistcoats were mostly created with natural yarns and as I never had sufficient yarn of any colours to complete a piece in one colour or even in balanced stripes I did my own freeform intarsia. Of course I had no idea what intarsia was back then. I simply created with many yarns in a free form way.

The photos from that time were pretty awful, but then they were from a wee camera from the late 60′s early 70′s.

I will add more photos as I find them. I know I do have one of the dressing gown as well.

A waistcoat is a simple garment to create in one piece. Knit, sew in any ends, join shoulders, block, wear.

The aim of knitting a garment in one piece is to KNIT – BLOCK – WEAR, truly that is as it should be, ME: I often knit, photograph, gift or wear.

If you have never done this before – choose a waistcoat pattern – one without a repeat design on it. Stick to stocking stitch (stockinette stitch) or garter stitch as in my picture otherwise your first piece will require recalculation of the pattern stitches as well.

1. Recalculate the cast on stitches required by adding the front left, back and front right stitches together.

For example: Back – 80 stitches and each front 40 stitches.

Depending on the style and the person for whom you are creating the piece you might reduce a stitch at the sides to compensate for the fact there will be no side seam to sew so this piece will be ever so slightly wider, but we will stick to the basics here.

2. Use a circular needle and cast on the 160 stitches.

Knit first row as per the pattern – Place a marker at the positions after stitch 40 and again after stitch 120. The marker is slipped everytime you reach it.

3. Knit to the required length for the cast off for the underarm.

4. The pattern will tell you how many stitches to cast off. For example if the pattern required 4 stitches to be cast off for the front and the same at the back – then cast off 8 stitches at each armhole – 4 either side of the marker.

When the work is divided for the armholes – I divide my yarn into three sections (could be 2 balls with one of those balls being fed from the outside as well as the inside) so that I am doing the decreases on the two front edges and the armholes on the whole waistcoat. Continue with shaping required at the armholes as well as the front edge shaping.

You could choose to knit the fronts and the back separately from this point or do it as I do all sections together – which ever you prefer. I do prefer knitting them at the same time with an added benefit being you will always have the same number of rows when you cast off for the shoulders or do your 3 needle bind off.

I am sorry I don’t have an example of a waistcoat other than these two, both in garter stitch but with tuxedo points- one asymmetrical and the other with symmetrical points. Both were knitted in one piece, the only finishing the odd ends and a crochet trim. They were also created with many colours in simple undefined stripes. So of course this method of creating a garment is also a stash busting opportunity.

knittingmom asked the question – I been wanting to learn how to that kind of one piece knitting. But very intimidated by it!! thank you! Appreciate it very much. Really want to learn that method!

I am staggered that my waistcoat which I am knitting in one piece to the under arms – is working out as a striped one. That is the colour changes are almost so correct that each set of the 4 rows of Feather and Fan (Shale) stitch pattern is in an individual colour. Now that isn’t a problem, I just didn’t expect it to be quite so distinct.

The problem I have now is what to do when I divide for the armholes. Do I cut the yarn and maintain the stripes more or less, or do I cut the yarns and use a different colour more or less for each front and for the back? I am having trouble visualising the end result and it is unusual for me to have a problem visualising colour on a piece I am creating, but this is such a surprising result that I am having a minor conniption.

I know! I carried on knitting, not believing my eyes – but now I must believe the camera.

Has anyone created a waistcoat using Kureyon Sock Yarn and made some decisions on where to go to from here? Please.

I found on the internet that there are 2 Noro Kureyon yarns and one is described as a gorgeous self striping 100% wool yarn, and mine being Kureyon Sock yarn contains 30% nylon yarn. It is also described as having long, subtle color changes, which is not happening on my waistcoat – where the stripes are clear not subtle – but that is to do with the width I have chosen to knit, not the yarn.